In Detail: Eisenhower Jacket - Cover

In Detail: Eisenhower Jacket

There’s a long history of countercultures adopting military wear - to the point where it becomes part of their identities and the legacies they leave behind. We’ll always associate MA-1 flight jackets with skinheads, fishtail parkas with the Mods, and M-65 field jackets with the American protesters that found their voice in the Sixties. Each of these tribes found a way to express themselves through military surplus.

The Eisenhower jacket is very much part of that story. It was popularized by the former American General / President whose name it bears, and it’s said to have been inspired by a jacket an English general Eisenhower met, who enlisted a London tailor to make one to his liking. With its cropped, narrow waist, the Eisenhower jacket has an uncommon flair. It’s no wonder, then, that it gained traction with the style-savvy in the civilian world.

In particular, it found a home on the streets of London, becoming popular with bands like Spandau Ballet in the underground New Romantic scene - the movement that gave birth to New Wave music at the beginning of the Eighties. From day one, the New Romantics were creative and subversive - a younger generation that didn’t want to wear the clothes they were being sold, and no longer felt connected to the first wave of punk music. They smashed fashion rules and gender binary codes in the way they dressed, as exemplified by one of their most famous members - Boy George. Through this creative expression, the New Romantics created their own scene, which ended up captivating the world through their music and style. While they had too much going on to pin on one item of clothing, the Eisenhower jacket will always remind us of their freewheeling spirit.

Our version features a slightly longer body and is made from Loden wool. Made according to centuries of Alpine tradition to keep farmers and shepherds protected against harsh winters, Loden wool provides a more weatherproof, wind resistant alternative to the classic wool serge used in vintage Eisenhower jackets. Beyond making the jacket lighter without sacrificing warmth, the denser fabric also means it’s easier to layer it underneath a coat (the way it was initially designed for military use).

Going the extra mile with the fabric means our streamlined take can stand out - the better to honor the secret classic that this style of jacket has become. Over the years, the Eisenhower jacket has found appreciation with those who know who they are and have little use for labels or rules - the people that continue to inspire us and breathe life into the world we live in.